"Bandit" (2bandit)
05/14/2014 at 20:43 • Filed to: Emma
2
16|
"Bandit" (2bandit)
05/14/2014 at 20:43 • Filed to: Emma | 2
| 16 |
Help? I just dropped the steering column so I can access the ignition switch if something is wrong there.
Nick, Drives a Cobalt LT
> Bandit
05/14/2014 at 20:45 |
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Flux capacitor is fried bro.
cletus44 aka Clayton Seams
> Bandit
05/14/2014 at 20:51 |
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If it's resetting every now and then, it doesn't seem like a fuse. I wish I could be more help
Tekamul
> Nick, Drives a Cobalt LT
05/14/2014 at 20:53 |
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Two theories
1) Poor connection somewhere. Under low load, it just acts like a resistor, but high load opens the circuit. Clean your battery terminals.
2) Cracked main fuse. Similar as above, but the high current through a resistive fuse heats the fuse enough to open it temporarily.
Do you have a multimeter? If so use that to check the battery voltage (at the studs) during the procedure. Do the same when clamped to the cables instead of the studs.
Agrajag
> Bandit
05/14/2014 at 21:00 |
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I've had this same issue on both my 79 z/28 and 75 suburban. Drove me nuts but it just ended up being a bad connection at the battery. Mine were the front mount screw posts and they would loosen just enough over time to cause this. Try cleaning the shit out of the posts and applying electrical connection grease if you haven't already.
Zipppy, Mazdurp builder, Probeski owner and former ricerboy
> Bandit
05/14/2014 at 21:02 |
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Could it be a relay that's stuck? I'm sure a professor of mine had a similar issue with his 3rd gen TransAm. He'd give the relay a knock, and it would unstick.
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Bandit
> Zipppy, Mazdurp builder, Probeski owner and former ricerboy
05/14/2014 at 21:04 |
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The bit on the starter? I took the starter off last night and it was working well.
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Bandit
> Agrajag
05/14/2014 at 21:06 |
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The thing is, it's a pretty darn new battery and I've made sure it has been getting a good connection.
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Agrajag
> Bandit
05/14/2014 at 21:10 |
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That connection grease makes a world of difference. Make sure the cable ends are clean as well. I've had issues with even the slightest amount of corrosion.
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Zipppy, Mazdurp builder, Probeski owner and former ricerboy
> Bandit
05/14/2014 at 21:16 |
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Could be another relay in the starter circuit, but I can't really tell without an electrical diagram.
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Bandit
> Zipppy, Mazdurp builder, Probeski owner and former ricerboy
05/14/2014 at 21:19 |
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Just swapped out the ignition switch. Didn't work.
crowmolly
> Bandit
05/14/2014 at 21:51 |
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Just to back it up a bit (as I'm sure I missed some of your posts) what have you done since the car started and ran (other than the body work)?
Did you check all of your grounds, etc already?
Zibodiz
> Bandit
05/14/2014 at 22:20 |
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Do you have a multimeter? Test power at the other end of the battery cables when the problem is present. You should be getting at least 12 volts, probably more like 14 or 15 if it's fully charged. If you have no power, you probably need a new cable or terminal.
I've had identical symptoms from bad cables.
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Zibodiz
> Bandit
05/14/2014 at 22:23 |
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That looks like its had a bit of resto-modding done; what electronics does it have? Or is it all original spec?
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Bandit
> Zibodiz
05/14/2014 at 22:33 |
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Mostly original. The car use to have an ECU but that is long gone. The ECU system was on its own harness so the rest of the car is untouched.
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Zibodiz
> Bandit
05/15/2014 at 00:48 |
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It's either your cables, terminals, or solenoid (assuming the power for the rest of the car is siphoned off at the solenoid.) Since you don't have a computer mucking about with it, it's analog power signal, so the only thing that can stop it would be an open circuit. You might also have a bad grounding cable between the engine and the frame. Use a multimeter to see where the power stops. You could also test resistance between the engine block and the negative battery post; that'll tell you if you have a grounding issue.
joey-taps
> Bandit
05/16/2014 at 17:58 |
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I had the same thing, and after replacing the starter, found out it was just the battery cable clamp that was dirty.... the symptoms were the same, everything turns on but as soon as the starter puts a load on the battery, everything clicks off.